Santiago and Around

Dear all:

Since we last spoke, I have arrived in a new country: the spindly Republic of Chile, and spent a day and a half in the capital, Santiago which I was very surprised by in that I found it most pleasant. In truth, I only really wanted to go to Chile so I could drive through the Andes and get another stamp in my passport. Stamps are pretty. I had heard that Chile was expensive, apparently very European and all the friends I have met so far are having fun together in Bolivia, or something, maybe they're not there yet, but they will be at some point. So in a somewhat Napoleon Dynamite fashion I thought to myself 'Fine! I'll go to frikkin' Chile. Gosh!'

But Santiago was a really cool capital, maybe because it is so European and just like London and they let nerds like me into the National Library to geek out about books they can't even touch let alone understand. There's just something about shelves, you know? There was also, to my delight, steps that I was allowed to climb up to look at the whole city. I hadn't climbed steps for some time and was suffering slightly from withdrawal symptoms, so I dragged myself up them, sweating and panting (in a good way) to survey my domain of high rise buildings and MOUNTAINS. Then I went to the Fine Arts Museum, which wasn't weird and feverish like Cordoba, but had lots of fun things in it including a 'Living Art' exhibition where lots of art students were just doing their thing in the main courtyard bit. And as I watched those crazy art students, I thought of Chandni. Hey Chandni. Then I had lunch in the café and felt like one of those rich women who look at art and then eat off the menu in the café that has heavy ornate metal tables. Yes.

After indulging my antisocial, loner streak and talking to NO-ONE in my hip and trendy hostel but a lovely French lady, I decided I'd like to move on, so I ask my host, Santiago, what he recommended, and he said 'Well, what are you in the mood for?' and I responded: 'Steps, please.' And he said, 'Ah, I have just the thing for you, madam, you wear a size 7, am I correct...' and off we go into Emma's head again... I am picturing an elderly man in a waistcoat with silver hair and a tape measure round his neck...

So, yes. Off I went to Valparaiso, quite excited as Lucy had also written it down as a must see in The Book of Many Numbers and Organisation and Budget but alas, when I arrived, I looked at it and thought, what?! I have been duped. Coming from fancy, glitzy Santiago and swish, sophisticated Argentina, my first impression of Valparaiso was a scruffy, ugly port town. Could it be possible that I was, in fact, travelling in a developing country? No. Impossible. I won't stand for it. I travel to see exactly the same things as I have at home, but for cheaper, thank you very much. However, I pulled the stick out of my arse and met my host, Valparaiso, who said: 'I hear you like steps?' And I was filled with joy!

Now there are four important things to do whilst in Valparaiso: walk up steps OR take tiny, Victorian lift things, and then walk down steps OR hills, and I have done ALL of these things. I had a beautiful, expensive lunch on the top of a hill, not because I could afford it, but because the restaurant was so pretty and had a View and it called to me, then I got snap happy and took lots of photos of all the kooky, interesting, kitsch houses that are built almost on top of each other in all different colours and different styles and then just as I had bought salad and strawberries and thought I could no longer stand the heat, I saw MORE steps and was drawn to them and climbed some more and walked along a little balcony/bridge type thing and I felt bohemian and awesome and wanted to run around in a flat cap and bare feet and a grubby piece of material tied around my neck.

Also, this place is something to do with Pablo Neruda, but I am ashamed to say I know not one thing about him. Let's wikipedia him... ah. He was a poet. I should probably read him. If only I understood Spanish. My Christmas list full of English translations will be written up upon my return. Tomorrow I shall go to Viña del Mar to lie in the sun and do nothing, and then